"perfection"

the perfect wave is not a wave. it's the moment just before, during, and after a wave. the anticipation, the mindlessness, the reflection. it's the idea. it's a fantasy then it's a reality. it's with your friends. it's by yourself. it's with the love of your life. inside the dark barrel, uncertain, scared, but ready to be spit into the world. the perfect wave exists for only a fraction of earth's time. it comes, then it goes. just like every breath. just like the rest of us.